LUZON MAY BE DOMINATED by the bustling capital city, Manila, but there’s another unique location on the largest of the Philippine archipelago’s 7,500 islands. Vigan, the country’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, lies 250 miles north along the west coast, facing the South China Sea. A visit to its cobblestone streets and Philippine/Oriental fusion architecture offers an opportunity to experience the historic charm of one of the best-preserved Spanish colonial towns in Asia.

Now part of the mainland as a result of silting in the Mestizo River, originally the city was an island settled by early Chinese immigrants who developed a major Silk Route port. They called it “Beautiful Shore,” or Bee Gan, a pronunciation corrupted by the Spanish who arrived in 1572 to take over the thriving post trading gold, timber and beeswax. Known then as Villa Fernandina in honor of a Spanish prince, its vivid history evolved during the mid-17th century into a hotbed of dissent against the Spanish overlords who assassinated revolutionary Diego Silang and publicly hanged his wife and successor, Gabriela. During World War II, the arrival of the Japanese Army escaping American bombers spared the city from destruction. Today, its three interconnected main squares preserve the ambience of colonial times.

With a population of just more than 50,000 and few automobiles, the compact city is easy to explore on foot, by horse carriage and tricycles. Fleets of horse-drawn kalesas clip-clop through the city, charging only about 150 pesos ($3.50) per hour. Less nostalgic but faster and more efficient are tricycle taxis — sidecar motorcycles that whiz passengers anywhere in town for less than a quarter.

Following the customary Spanish “Law of the Indies” town plan (a grid anchored by a central plaza or park), Vigan grew up around Plaza Salcedo, today dominated by a pool surrounded by religious and administrative buildings: the Casa Real and Municipal Hall and the Bishop’s Palace beside massive, thick-walled St. Paul’s Cathedral, named for the city’s patron saint, St. Paul the Apostle. Designed to survive, the church was created in the Earthquake Baroque style, low and wide with heavily buttressed side walls to withstand tremors. As a further precaution, the belfry stands beside the church, detached to avoid collapse onto the main structure. Chinese details on the brass communion handrails provide signs of the locale’s multicultural mixture and is typical of the amalgamation of Chinese, Spanish and American influences on the buildings throughout town.

Pinakbet © RECYAP8 | DREAMSTIME.COM

Right beside the cathedral — and unusual to the traditional Spanish design — a second public square, Plaza Burgos, presents a lively scene of food stalls peddling local snacks. Diners can sit at picnic tables and try arroz caldo, chicken porridge; soupy miki, noodles; ukoy, deep-fried shrimp mixed with flour and eggs; poqui-poqui, mashed eggplant and egg; and the city’s famous fluffy but crunchy empanadas. Homesick travelers can opt for a three-piece hearty meal at the picturesque “vintage-style” ochre plaster McDonald’s.

Plaza Burgos honors Padre José Burgos, the 19th-century Roman Catholic priest whose martyrdom sparked the Philippine Revolution. A few blocks west, the rambling 18th-century building that was his home now holds the Burgos Museum, where exhibited relics chronicle his life. Discouraged by the clergy’s support of harsh Spanish practices, he wrote an open letter “To the Spanish People” arguing for reform. When soldiers and workers mutinied, Padre Burgos was arrested in retaliation and executed by garrote in 1872 in Manila.

Steps away, Old Town, or the Mestizo District, comprises 24 city blocks lined with pastel-hued ancestral homes. These authentic and faithfully restored mansions, designed in a combination of Oriental and Spanish styles, boast arched windows, filigree wrought-iron trim, crenellated awnings and ventilated walls. In some, the ground floor has been converted to shops selling a plethora of souvenirs — pottery, curios, baskets, thousands of flip flops — to browsers who shop while their patient horses stand at carriages along the main thoroughfare, Crisologo Street, closed to motor traffic.

While many homes remain in private hands, a few open to the public enable visitors to get a sense of the past lifestyle. Visitors can make an appointment to see the vintage wood furniture, curios and oil paintings of the Quema House, while Syquia Mansion, former home of President Elpidio Qirino, includes a collection of presidential memorabilia. One large mansion converted into the Crisologo Museum displays everyday family artifacts as well as the trousers and sunglasses local Congressman Floro Chrisologo was wearing the day he was assassinated in 1970 while attending mass in the Cathedral.

Mindoro Island © EFIRED | DREAMSTIME.COM

Swimmers can hire a tricycle for the 15-minute ride to the black-sand expanse of Mindoro Beach. Another outlying option is the quirky 40-minute cruise on the Mestizo River. Colorful open boats covered with awnings paddle the narrow waterway while an audio guide describes five “tableaus” constructed on the bank. Life-size costumed mannequins populate the diorama scenes depicting Vigan’s history from pre-colonial times through the 1572 arrival of Juan de Salcedo and on to an elaborate exhibit celebrating the local products of trade: weapons, vinegar and fish paste.

For dining, local fare assimilates regional, Chinese and Spanish dishes. The province’s specialty Ilocano cuisine features local vegetables enhanced with sweet, sour and salty flavors. In pinakbet, bitter melon, eggplant, squash and okra are cooked with bagoong, fermented shrimp, or bagnet, sun-dried pork belly, fried crisp before it’s mixed with the vegetables. Soupy variations of pinakbet include dinengdeng, principally squash cooked with fewer vegetables, and dinoydoy, which balances the flavors of squash and bitter melon. Only the adventurous need sample pork blood-based lumo soup and the sinanglao mixture of beef broth and innards. Local sugarcane wine accompanies meals.

For a colorful conclusion to the day, enjoy the nightly fountain show. At 7:30 p.m., Plaza Salcedo lights up with sprays and spouts of water dancing to tunes ranging from the Titanic theme to the Philippine national anthem.

Philippine Islands Info to Go

Hardy travelers can opt for the drive or bus trip, a scenic six-hour ramble up Luzon’s west coast through quaint villages, past mango groves, maize drying in the sun and distant mountains. More realistic is the hour-long flight from Manila (MNL) to Laoag (LAO), the nearest airport; from there, taxis and shuttles make the 40-minute drive to Vigan. Philippine Airlines flies the route two to three times daily, and the fare costs about $150.

Where to Stay in the Philippine Islands

CORDILLERA INN Rich history and modern facilities, past and present, meet in 24 refurbished, air-conditioned, pristine white rooms with traditional wood furniture and gossamer netting looped over fourposter beds. 29 Mena Crisologo St. $$

HOTEL LUNA With laudable location, service and food, the Philippines’ only museum hotel showcases art in historic, ornately decorated whitewashed rooms overlooking an arcaded courtyard surrounding the pool. Luna Street $$

HOTEL VENETO DE VIGAN This recently renovated, centrally located, rambling white plaster edifice features a coffee shop, bar and restaurant and also offers free WiFi, airport transfers and plenty of parking spaces. Bonifacio Street $$

Restaurants in the Philippine Islands

CAFÉ BIGAA This cozy converted pub serves a Vigan sampler for diners who want to try the local bagnet and pinakbet. Vigan Plaza Hotel, Mena Crisologo Street, Plaza Burgos $$

CAFÉ LEONA Casual and conveniently located, this long-time favorite serves Philippine specialties and popular brick-oven bagnet pizza. Its outdoor tables draw an evening crowd. Mena Crisologo Street $$

LILONG & LILANG Located within the Hidden Garden two miles west of town, this Asian-inspired outdoor restaurant is a place to find authentic local Ilocano cuisine served in the ambience of tropical plants and flowers. Hidden Garden, Barangay Bulala $$